Another pair of Vikings today! Not a whole lot to write about them – one model is duplicated from the ones shown last time, and the other is nothing special, and has an annoyingly awkward hand/shield boss hole.
Having completed these two, I’m left with only another five to go from the sixteen Perry Vikings I picked up from Wargames Foundry. Of course, the final five are my favourites from the set, which is why they’ve been bumped to the back so much, and also why they’ve barely got anything past their chainmail done to date.
On one hand, while the models themselves are nothing too exciting, on the other hand I’m quite happy with the shield designs on both of this pair. I haven’t really done anything especially like them before. Next up for the vikings will be a “Book Two so far” post. Hopefully not too far behind that will be the rest of these Perry Vikings.



Oh dear – Mr. Blue-shield is a bit goofy isn’t he! Still, they look fine mate, and the freehand on the shields is lovely!!
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Yeah, I think it’s fair to say that he’s the lesser of this batch of models, which are overall pretty nice.
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Ahh, the shields! 🙂
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Cheers Carlo!
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Great work, fantastic shields!
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Thank you mate. 🙂
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Cool shields mate. Love to see you do a freehand dragon. Question, when it comes to chainmail do you just use a leadbelcher, or something similar then wash and highlight?
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Thanks, IRO. I have a “2-headed dragon” Viking motif on this guy
But as far as a “proper”, full knotwork dragon that’s a fiddly bit of paint indeed – mostly because of the separation lines in knotwork patterns as elements go “under” other elements and “over” others. I’ll be trying it at some stage, but I’ll be saving those kinds of shields for the true warlords of the piece.
To do chain, after priming I paint the area with Vallejo’s Black Surface Primer (I get the 200ml bottles) and then drybrush with pretty much any “mid-time silver” which includes VMA Chainmail, Leadbelcher, etc (usually whatever I grab first, to be honest). I then wash with usually-thinned Army Painter black wash, and sometimes Army Painter Dark Tone – or a mix of the two. How mixed or how thinned depends on what I’m painting and how dirty or clean I want it to look. Then just a touch-up highlight, again – how bright or dull depends on what I’m painting.
Hope this helps!
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Definitely helped Az
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I’ll join the “awesome shields” choir! Wonderful work.
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Thanks Mikko. 🙂
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