Today I have the next four sets of Scrap/Debris piles from the Speed Freeks/Mekboy Workshop sets. Same ethos as the ones I showed the other day – keep ’em interesting visually through use of colour and details – and most importantly – unique enough so that they can share a tabletop without looking like stamped clones.

Both sides of this pair.

…and both sides of this pair.

Faust was asking about the paint chipping in the comments of the other post, and while it’s too late to do a proper tutorial on these (maybe on the walls in the future) I can still explain what I did to get the effect on these pieces.

1. Spray Black
2. Spray Dark Metallic
3. Spray in an “iron” colour. Like silver, but not overly bright. I didn’t use Leadbelcher spray, but it would work perfectly for this.
4. Drybrush the metal bits you’ll want to be extra shiny, post-chipping with silver.
5. Heavy gloss varnish spray
6. OPTIONAL: Paint over the bits you want to chip with PVA for more fragmented/crackled paint – I did this on some pieces but not on others.
7. Mix Crackle Paint Medium with your chosen colour. It’s gloopy and thick and horrible. I used Greenstuff World’s medium. It’s probably the same with Vallejo or Jo Sonja or whoever else.
8. Apply carefully over your chosen coloured area. Let Dry.
9. Repeat 7-8 for all the colours you’re going to use on that piece, it just makes life easier later on.
10. Shade and highlight those colours.
11. Now the fun begins! Find something that’s not too sharp (I used a sculpting tool) and use some of the cracks to chip away at the paint. The extra-thick bits are also good. Pay extra attention to edges and dents in the sculpt, as places like that are more likely to have paint wear and chipping. Try not to gouge into the plastic, but even if you do it can be touched up. When you’re happy, stop.
12. Weather, add rust (powders).
13. Heavy gloss spray
14. Matte Spray.

The first of the heavy gloss sprays is to protect the black and silver base from the fact that you’ll be gouging away on top shortly. The last one is because it’s scenery, and so is likely to be more roughly handled than your normal, nice models.

Hope this is useful! Since I’ve done most of the work writing it up, I’m sure I’ll be able to recycle the text with a photographically-illustrated tutorial down the line!